Its been two years since I rode a wave
I used to ride them every day
Changes and the seasons
and the rhymes reveal the reasons
that I paddled out this weekend
far rockaway
rental board, g&s gun
the sun was out, a little breezy
nothing heavy, no big sets
but the whole while I was thinking of
maggie and millie and mollie and may
and how sometimes it all comes together
for a perfect wave
and a perfect day
found this video tonight
I can relate
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